Brewing & Tasting

Chapter V · The Brewing: Terroir — For each sheng of water, divide it into five bowls…

Photo: Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0

The passage

“For each sheng of water, divide it into five bowls and drink while hot, in succession. The heavy and muddy settles below; the essence and fineness floats above.”

Terroir

“For each sheng of water, divide it into five bowls…” opens the question of terroir: the same cultivar can taste different on a different slope, soil, altitude, or mist line.

The Classic of Tea ranks soils by drainage and minerality. Modern growers still begin with the same questions: water, roots, shade, and air.

When tasting, ask where the tea grew before asking how famous it is. Terroir is not a marketing word; it is a set of physical conditions.

Reading note

Read the passage once for the image, once for the judgment, and once for the practice it implies.

Practice

  • Name one thing the passage asks you to notice.
  • Compare it with a tea you know.
  • Keep the question open.
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