Chapter VI · The Drinking: Terroir — Alas! Heaven nurtures all things, and each has its utmost…
Photo: Wikimedia Commons · CC0
The passage
“Alas! Heaven nurtures all things, and each has its utmost subtlety. Yet what men labor at is only the shallow and easy. They dwell in houses, and houses are refined to the utmost; they wear garments, and garments are refined to the utmost; they eat and drink, and food and wine are refined to the utmost.”
Terroir
“Alas! Heaven nurtures all things, and each has its utmost…” opens the question of terroir: the same cultivar can taste different on a different slope, soil, altitude, or mist line.
The Classic of Tea ranks soils by drainage and minerality. Modern growers still begin with the same questions: water, roots, shade, and air.
When tasting, ask where the tea grew before asking how famous it is. Terroir is not a marketing word; it is a set of physical conditions.
Reading note
Read the passage once for the image, once for the judgment, and once for the practice it implies.
Practice
- Name one thing the passage asks you to notice.
- Compare it with a tea you know.
- Keep the question open.